Harvest 2023 in Italy, estimates
The 2023 Italian grape harvest is akin to a dual-faced deity. This year's grape production paints a contrasting canvas, revealing a tale of divergent fortunes across the country. The estimates from the Italian Wine Union (Uiv), Ismea, and Assoenologi, unveiled in Rome, present a tapestry where the North shines, the Center and South falter, and the effects range from moderate to dramatic. In the North, resilience prevails. For instance, Piedmont registers only a mild -2% reduction, while the Veneto displays an impressive +5% increase and Lombardy outshines them all with a remarkable +15% growth. A northern spectacle that symbolizes hope amidst the vines. However, the southern regions are grappling with a different narrative. The Center and the South face less favorable prospects, with statistics echoing a troubling tune. The Emilia Romagna region experiences a -4.5% decline, Tuscany and Lazio see a disheartening -20% decrease, while the Marche faces a -25% drop. The southern duo of Sicily and Puglia witness a more substantial -30% reduction, and Abruzzo, tragically, faces a staggering -40% plunge. This challenging scenario places immense strain on the tenacious winegrowers.
Yet, amid these ups and downs, there is a silver lining. Peronospora, the unwanted guest of 2023, wreaks havoc, particularly in the Center and the South, impacting the quantity of the harvest. However, the quality seems, at least for now, to remain unscathed. This is evident from the data concerning sparkling wine bases and the earlier grape varieties already resting in the cellars. As we enter this bifurcated vintage, it's essential to remember that these numbers are a snapshot in time. The wine world is a realm of unpredictability, and the real drama of the 2023 harvest may yet unfold as the bulk of the harvest is projected to occur between September and October. Amidst the uncertainty, Italian winemakers will continue to craft their liquid masterpieces, embracing the duality of the harvest with creativity and resilience.
"I always caution the producers I advise," explains Riccardo Cotarella, the president of Assoenologi, "about the risks associated with organic farming. There can be years like those of two or three years ago when the climate was on our side. But there can also be seasons like 2023 in which making organic wine becomes nearly impossible. I've heard of vineyard owners compelled to apply 30 treatments of copper sulfate, the sole product permitted in organic viticulture to combat diseases. Between the CO2 emissions from tractors making multiple trips between the rows and the copper residue on the grape clusters (not exactly a rejuvenating tonic for the human body), it's genuinely challenging to discern what could be deemed organic in those wines." This poignant example should serve as a clarion call, prompting deeper reflections on the sustainability of agricultural practices. Years like 2023 resurface lingering doubts about the gradual reduction of chemical usage in agriculture, all without the discovery of viable alternatives. "A pivotal point," Cotarella adds, "is that organic farming necessitates even more scientific and technological research than conventional methods, not less. 'Natural wine' is a misnomer. In nature, there are grapes that are transformed into wine through human intervention. The intervention of humans is always essential to oversee the fermentation process and stabilize the wine, which would otherwise swiftly metamorphose into vinegar."
Yet another concern close to the heart of the president of oenologists is the approach to climate change. "The general rise in temperatures isn't merely problematic," Cotarella continues. "Vines can easily endure temperatures exceeding 45 degrees. In fact, the recent years' increased warmth has facilitated the full ripening of late Italian varieties like Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, or Aglianico. This is why I'm convinced that, over the past 15 years, Italy has produced its finest wines. The challenge lies in shielding the grapes from the sun's ultraviolet rays. Achieving this requires a transformation in vineyard design, favoring systems that encourage leaf growth to protect the grape clusters. Thus, I emphasize to producers that they can no longer cultivate vines as their fathers or grandfathers did, for the climate and conditions have evolved, and instead of relying solely on tradition, innovative solutions are imperative."
A challenging vintage that has compelled producers to make investments in order to preserve quality. The work of technicians, both in the vineyards and in the cellars, has been and will continue to be crucial in mitigating damage and upholding the positive oenological predictions regarding the quality of the harvest, including peaks of excellence. These predictions are set against a backdrop of complementary raw material prices, such as packaging components, which show no signs of rebalancing despite the significant increases of the past 18 months. To draw precise and definitive conclusions about the 2023 harvest, we await the culmination of the harvest phase. Its commencement has been deliberate and measured, with the hope of maintaining climatic conditions suitable for the gathering of late grapes and confirming the anticipated data regarding quality.
